Musica live di sottofondo con la voce calda di Emeli Sandè e luci violacee sono la cornice della sfilata Siviglia durante l’appena trascorsa settimana della moda maschile milanese. Lo show ospita anche qualche capo della linea femminile per il prossimo A/I 2013 e sfilano cappotti oversize dal design morbido e ovoidale, pull e pantaloni dai tagli lineari e ankle boots senza tacco che si fanno bandiera di una comodità di classe a colpi di vernice e pelle. I colori sono sobri: morbidi beige, grigi e melanzana; l’evento sembra urlare a gran voce lo slogan “less is more” e questo diventa il punto focale della collezione: minimalismo. Se quest inverno siamo stati tempestati da cascate di paillettes, asimmetrie e colori forti, osservando questa passerella sorge un pensiero, la voglia di riassaporare la semplicità sartoriale, poche linee tracciate con precisione dando valore alla comodità di perdersi all’interno di una maxi cappa o camminare determinati verso la meta senza preoccuparsi di fare i conti con tacchi e platform d’altezze spropositate. L’elemento che aggiunge carisma al capo diventa la pelle che lo indossa, il carattere di chi lo veste. E dopo tutto questo sperimentare la moda palesa il suo bisogno di verità, si ritorna all’essenziale ma sincero abbraccio di un abbigliamento multi-occasione, senza badare ad eccessi e lustrini.
Sabrina Tassini – Patchwork à Porter










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